How to aerate your lawn in 5 easy steps

Key points

• Clear, mow and water your lawn before aerating your yard.

• Aeration is an antidote to heavy foot traffic that compacts the yard’s soil.

• The aeration tool helps nutrients reach the soil and helps nurture your lawn.

Spring is in full swing and your lawn is calling. “While regular watering and mowing practices are important, aeration, dethatching and overseeding can lead to long-term turf health,” said Ron Scheffler, a lawn and turf expert and senior product manager with Bobcat Company.

Aeration is a crucial component of lawn care. Without it, soil can become compacted under the pressure of foot or paw traffic and debris, making it difficult for necessary nutrients to reach grass roots and resulting in lackluster growth. Think of aeration as a facial for your grass — this lawn service helps soil soak up all the good stuff — helping your yard thrive.

Whether you hire a professional lawn service company or try your hand at DIY aeration, the tips below will help you deal with heavy clay soil standing between you and a verdant lawn.

Why should you aerate your lawn?

Lawn aeration tills the ground to ensure nutrients get to the root system of your grass. This fundamental step reduces soil compaction, improves soil structure, provides better water infiltration and nutrient uptake, promotes stronger root growth and fosters beneficial microorganisms, Scheffler said.

Neglecting lawn aeration may degrade the overall health of your lawn. “Over time, the soil will compact as a result of continuous mower use or foot traffic from kids and dogs playing on the lawn,” said Nate Birch, senior vice president of maintenance at Mariani Landscape in Chicago. “When that happens, it’s much harder for nutrients to penetrate the roots, and it’s ultimately harder for the roots to thrive,” he said.

What do you need to aerate your lawn?

To get started, decide on the aeration method you plan to implement — granular or mechanical — as each requires different supplies.

Mechanical aeration

Traditionally, mechanical aeration has been the go-to method. Using hollow tines, mechanical and plug aerators can dig beneath the soil surface and pull out plugs of soil. This process creates a porous space (think of them as small holes) that allows the nutrients to reach the root system, Birch said.

A grounds maintenance machine with an aerator attachment can penetrate the soil and tackle significant thatch buildup, Scheffler added. A range of aerating tools can create core aeration. Homeowners with small or highly landscaped areas might have most success using a walk-behind aerator, Scheffler said.

Alternatively, ride-on aerators are better suited for a bigger area or for aerating an entire lawn, as they “are designed for ease of operation, maximum ground coverage and comfort,” he continued. Tow-behind aerators provide similar lawn treatments over expansive areas that span more than an acre.

Mechanical aeration might be a better option for homeowners who don’t want to dedicate too much time to ongoing maintenance. “Mechanical aeration requires less frequent watering compared to granular aeration and can provide faster results in soil structure and plant health,” Scheffler said.

Granular aeration

Granular aeration involves applying a compound that increases moisture retention. “Granular aeration is a completely natural process that causes minimal soil disruption and helps soil regeneration and health,” Scheffler said. “Grain-based aeration products put carbon back into the soil and help existing microbes thrive.”

Birch also likes granular aeration because it is more efficient, doesn’t disrupt the surface of your lawn and doesn’t leave a mess. Once the natural reaction of the application occurs, the result is the same as mechanical aeration, he added.

How do you aerate your lawn?

Depending on the size and state of your lawn, you may want to call a professional lawn care expert. Aeration costs can range from $75 to $225 per application, according to several industry experts we spoke with.

“Seasoned experts who understand the best practices and techniques will make sure that aeration, combined with any additional efforts such as overseeding, are done correctly for maximum benefit,” Scheffler said. This might include deciphering which method — granular or mechanical — is best for your lawn and completing the process.

Even if you hire a professional service, you’ll need to know when to call them (check your grass’s growing season), mow your lawn, flag any sprinklers and water the yard before their arrival.

DIY aeration

Lawn aeration is relatively straightforward to DIY. All you have to do is purchase a granular “soil builder” product at Home Depot or Lowe’s. The application is similar to that of fertilizer.

Stick to any watering instructions outlined in the application directions on the label. This is a crucial after-care step, Scheffler pointed out, as “it helps the granules take effect.” This means the carbon product will be successfully delivered to the soil and foster root growth.

If you need to rent aerating machines, contact local retailers or a landscaping company.

With some planning, lawn aeration can be completed within a week. Here is what you need to know for your best lawn yet.

Step 1: Determine what type of grass you have

Determining what type of grass is growing in your lawn will inform you of its growing season — and the optimal time to aerate it.

For example, “Warm-season grasses, such as Bermuda grass or zoysia grass, are best aerated in late spring to early summer when the soil temperature reaches around 70 degrees Fahrenheit,” Scheffler said. “This timing allows the warm season grass seeds to take advantage of the warmer weather for successful growth and development.”

Meanwhile, cool-season grasses, such as fescue, Kentucky bluegrass or perennial ryegrass, are best aerated in the early fall, he continued. These types of grasses best germinate and root ahead of colder months.

Step 2: Prep your lawn

Clear out any debris that might have been collected over the previous season. Now is the time to tackle any dry crabgrass.

“Water between one and three days before the aeration process,” Scheffler advised. “The moisture will help the aerator better penetrate the soil. It’s important not to overwater the turf, though, which can create turf that is too muddy to properly aerate.”

Next, pull out the lawnmower. “Set your mower to approximately 1.5 to 2 inches above the ground to maximize your efforts,” Scheffler said.

Once you’re done mowing, flag sprinkler heads, invisible fences, irrigation pipes and other objects just below the ground. “This is important as aerators can pull soil cores from depths of 2 to 5 inches beneath the ground surface,” he said.

Step 3: Aerate your lawn

Either apply the granular aeration product or use a mechanical aeration tool. An aeration machine can aerate anywhere from 29,000 square feet per hour with a walk-behind aerator to 3 acres per hour with a tow-behind aerator, Scheffler added.

Step 4: Water 

If using the granular aeration method, continue watering your lawn according to the label’s guidance. “Each lawn will vary slightly depending on the grass variety, soil conditions and weather,” Scheffler said. “A general rule of thumb is to water your lawn twice daily for about 20 minutes each time. Do this for the two weeks after aeration and overseeding or until the seeds start to germinate.”

Step 5: Stay off the lawn

Leave aeration plugs as they allow micronutrients to be released back into the soil. “The plugs will typically break down in a few weeks,” Scheffler said. Stay off the grass during those early weeks to help it root and grow.

You can lay off the lawnmower, too. Avoid mowing your lawn until the new grass has reached the height of at least 3 inches, Scheffler advised.

What’s next?

An aerated lawn is a happy lawn. Lawn aeration is a fundamental step in nurturing and achieving a healthy lawn. After your lawn is aerated, you can move onto other crucial steps of maintaining your lawn.

“Thatch is a layer of dead grass, roots and other debris that can limit water and nutrient absorption,” Scheffler said. This tangle of debris should be removed following aeration. Use a dethatcher or power rake to remove excess thatch buildup from your lawn.

Now your lawn is ready for overseeding, which improves the density of your grass, fills in bare spots and enhances the overall health of your lawn, Scheffler added. Focus on high-traffic areas to combat the wear and tear of your grass. A lush yard may also have the potential to deter pests.

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